US Road Trip!

On June 17th I left Austin to start traveling around the United States. My plan is to continue up until the holidays in November and December when I will be with family. Then next year I might continue or settle down in whatever new place I hope to discover on my trip.

If you want to follow along on my journey the only place I am updating daily is on Instagram. @scottdavidgordon

Here’s a panorama from Fall Lake in northern Minnesota to give you a taste of the amzaing natural beauty I’ve been witnessing. I wish I had not waited so long to see all of these places but am glad now to have to opportunity to do so. Please check out my Instagram to see more!

Fall Lake looking towards the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in northern Minnesota

Fall Lake looking towards the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in northern Minnesota

Fort Davis National Historic Site

A selection of views and things that I saw while hiking at Ft Davis. It was a wonderful morning and a visually stimulating location!

Journey To Cambodia

Approaching Angkor Wat along the main entrance sandstone causeway.

Approaching Angkor Wat along the main entrance sandstone causeway.

As I continued my trip through Southeast Asia in 2008, part of which I shared yesterday, I eventually reached Cambodia, the furthest point away from everything I had ever known. Very poor, and so beautiful, exotic, and ancient. Thankfully in the last couple of decades, I’ve read that the poverty level has been reduced quite a bit. What I recall noticing was how happy even the poorest people I came across seemed to be. They were living the best life they could with what little they had.

How do you choose to make the most of this precious life we have been gifted? I still shed a tear when remembering a man I met in the capital Phnom Penh, who had no arms or legs, asking for financial assistance in a town square. Even he seemed happy, and I felt shame for every complaint I had ever made about my life or any limits or obstacles that deterred me. What could he do or be if he were me? What’s my excuse?

It’s hard to imagine that at the same time that I was a young child, safe and sound in Illinois, millions were being killed in this country by the Khmer Rouge regime. One of my stops was the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, the location of one of the killing fields and a site of mass graves, now a memorial to the victims of that genocide, the skulls of many on display.

Now let’s get to the rest of my trip which was quite uplifting. After spending a week in Pattaya, visiting a very good friend from New York who was acting in a movie, I flew to Siem Reap, the city closest to the Angkor temples. If you are not familiar, Angkor Wat was built in the early 12th century and is according to Wikipedia, the “largest religious monument in the world by land area.” It’s not one of the official wonders of the world, but I suspect it’s on the 1000 places to see before you die list.

As soon as you come out of the airport at Siem Reap, there are Tuk Tuk drivers waiting for you. One attached himself to me immediately and became my transportation and tour guide for the rest of my visit. He dropped me off at the guest house where I had reservations and promised to pick me up before sunrise the next day. My visit would be short so I wanted to see as much as possible. Our first stop at dawn was Srah Srang reservoir, and once it was light enough, the guide took me close by to my first and favorite temple, Ta Prohm. It’s the one structure that conservationists decided not to completely restore, after finding it consumed and hidden by the jungle for hundreds of years. When a slew of tourists soon showed up I realized how lucky I was to have had the place to myself for a half-hour. The trees look as though they have melted over and merged into the structure.


Ta Prohm


The next stops were The Elephant Terrace, the Bayon, and finally Angkor Wat. All jaw-dropping. The photos definitely do not portray these unique structures as well as they could. Digital cameras have improved substantially in the last 12 years. This post is probably long enough so I’ll end it here and save the images of the floating village on Tonlé Sap Lake for another post. More time exploring would have been great but I had to take a bus to Phnom Penh, then fly back to Singapore, and then to my home at the time, New York City. I’ve not traveled overseas since and that’s disappointing. Hopefully, I can change that in the coming years!


The Elephant Terrace


Bayon


Angkor Wat


Draft Horse & Wendell Berry

The concept of country, homeland, dwelling place becomes simplified as “the environment” — that is, what surrounds us. Once we see our place, our part of the world, as surrounding us, we have already made a profound division between it and ourselves. We have given up the understanding — dropped it out of our language and so out of our thought— that we and our country create one another, depend on one another, are literally part of one another; that our land passes in and out of our bodies just as our bodies pass in and out of our land; that as we and our land are part of one another, so all who are living as neighbours here, human, plant and animal are part of one another, and so cannot possibly flourish alone; that, therefore, our culture must be our response to our place, our culture and our place are images of each other and inseparable from each other, and so neither can be better than the other.
— Wendell Berry, The Unsettling of America: Culture and Agriculture

Before being involved in the world of farming, I don’t think I’d ever heard of Wendell Berry. Maybe you haven’t yet either. Wikipedia lists him as an “American novelist, poet, essayist, environmental activist, cultural critic, and farmer.” Glad I know about him now. What a gift he has with words. This past week I finally listened to one of his books, The Unsettling of America, and was impressed. It’s the kind of book which shows you a different way to look at things with a big emphasis on critical thinking. I’ll be sharing more quotes from this book in future posts as I digest them.

As with Sapiens: A Brief History of Humankind by Yuval Noah Harari, it is thick with deep thoughts to ponder and reread. The kind of book that after a first pass, I’m inspired to buy a physical copy and go over it again, with patient, thoughtful, and concentrated examination. For me, these types of works feel valuable and worth trying to understand and hopefully integrate the information more permanently.

In the book, Mr. Berry defends the use of draft horse in farming and his passion for it reminded me of when I visited Sand Creek Farm in Cameron, TX in 2014. It was a magazine assignment from Acres USA, to photograph a working farm still using animals for plowing and other farm labor. They needed images for an upcoming issue about homesteading and small scale farming. Draft horse is not common these days, other than maybe with groups like the Amish, or for shows and competitions that keep it alive. Lucky that there was a great example of a working farm only a few hours from Austin. I was excited by the prospect of getting to see and learn about a different way of living and a time-honored practice.

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The soil is the great connector of lives, the source and destination of all. It is the healer and restorer and resurrector, by which disease passes into health, age into youth, death into life. Without proper care for it we can have no community, because without proper care for it we can have no life.
— Wendell Berry, The Unsettling of America: Culture and Agriculture

As I was driving there early before sunrise, a deer jumped in front of my car and totaled it. That was how the trip started, but after that it was wonderful. I spent the night at the farm and had a very enjoyable dinner with the owner Ben Godfrey and his family. Also, my friend Sarah who had worked at Johnson’s Backyard Garden was living and working there at the time, so it was nice to spend time with her. They gave me a tour of the whole operation which included, growing vegetables in the ground and with aquaponics in greenhouses, milking cows, making cheese, and the animals and equipment needed for draft horse. It was very nice of them to put in the time and complicated work of tacking up the animals and connecting them to plows, trailers, and carts. They demonstrated many of the various ways they used draft horse as I followed along with my camera to capture the story. See the photos below and the final Acres USA cover photo. Definitely one of my favorite jobs so far. You call this work?



It was exciting to be able to drive the horses down the road near the farm for a stretch. They are such powerful animals and so gentle and intelligent. I’ll not easily forget that experience any time soon. Not common at all where I come from! Thanks to Sarah for the photo, grabbed from Instagram.

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When despair for the world grows in me and I wake in the night at the least sound… I come into the peace of wild things who do not tax their lives with forethought of grief. I come into the presence of still water. And I feel above me the day-blind stars waiting with their light. For a time I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.
— Wendell Berry - The Peace of Wild Things

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Back In Texas

This is the only photo I have to document my 1300 mile drive back to Texas from Florida. It was taken at the first rest stop once you enter the state from Louisiana. Might have been the stop with a gang of sweet feral cats, can’t remember.

I’m glad to be home. And I’m glad I went, even though traveling right now might not seem like a good idea. Flying wasn’t an option at this time. The trip for me was worth the distance and effort, to get to see my family for Thanksgiving. We were as safe as we could be. I don’t want to live in a bubble. And I don’t want to put others at risk. It’s a stressful balance to maintain. Let’s hope it all works out for the best.

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Out To Okeechobee

How I wish that I had better photos to share all that I saw today. I went on a half-day road trip out west from Palm Beach to Lake Okeechobee. The most interesting moment was driving by a sugar cane field with 15 foot high flames, a monstrous plume of smoke you could see for miles, and an almost alarming amount of heat that wafted into my open window as I drove by. After doing some research I discovered how controversial it is. If you are curious there are two recent articles that I found at the Claims Journal and the Miami Herald websites. According to one article, there are 400,000 acres of sugar cane in Florida. Wow!

DuPuis Management Area, Canal Point, FL.

My first stop was the DuPuis Management Area where I went on a short hike. When I got there the parking lot was empty but upon leaving there was a gentleman resting against the map and information stand. Was not expecting to meet a retired motorcycle enthusiast taking a rest on his daily ride out in the country. We had a nice conversation and he recommended that I check out “the lock” just down the road. The lock helps maintain the water level for Lake Okeechobee, Florida’s 730 square mile Inland Sea, as boats leave or enter the canal to and from the lake. There’s a canal cut across the entire state to allow small boats passage. Turns out the Port Mayaca Lock & Dam is one of the few places you can get a good look at the lake since it is mostly hidden by a 40 ft. dike of earth and rock all along its perimeter. A historical sign next to a cemetery on the road to the lake gave a clue as to why such a large dike is necessary. In 1928 a storm surge broke through the then 6.6-foot dike and as many as 2500 people were killed.

Lake Okeechobee as seen from just south of the Port Mayaca Lock & Dam.

Being a farm photographer for so many years I now have a decent fascination for agriculture and get interested when I see farms and crops outside of my bubble. My route driving back toward the coast was somewhat random and it showed me two new types of farming I had not seen before. The sugar cane I mentioned already being the first. Found myself following a few semi-trucks with big caged trailers full of just harvested, and probably burned, sugar cane. The full ones heading towards a large industrial looking plant in the distance, and the empty ones heading back out for another load. No doubt a monolithic business.

The second type of farm I saw and was surprised by was turf. So many times I have seen a new housing development getting a delivery of pallets of grass to create someone’s new yard. Can’t say that I ever really thought about where it came from. As you can see from the picture below, there are literally 100’s of acres of mowed grass right next to the sugar cane fields. I watched as a specialized tractor cut up the strips of lawn and a few workers stacked it on pallets. One company’s website states they “offer muck-grown St. Augustine sod farmed on our fields throughout Western Palm Beach County.” Who knew!

Turf Farm along Old Conner’s Hwy heading southeast from Canal Point, FL., with a burning sugar cane field far in the distance.

Photos below: Top left- My trusty Mazda 3. Top right- Sugar cane field. Bottom right- The soil in this area is so very dark! Bottom left- If you’ve been to FL. you’ve seen the canals literally everywhere. They might be the reason this place is not all swampland.


The Banyan Tree

Florida is lush with all kinds of plants and trees. Reminds me of California, where everything seems to be feeding on Miracle Grow and is so prolific and colorful compared with Texas and the rest of the country. The fact that it does not often get very cold here makes a big difference. Most of the state has either a tropical or humid subtropical climate. Maybe it’s not fair to say more lush but just different in a tropical kind of way. Different than what I’m used to for sure.

While visiting, one tree that I see every day while walking around my Aunt’s complex is what I believe to be the Banyan Tree (Ficus benghalensis), a member of the fig family. The reason I’m not confident of the exact species is that there is also a native Florida Strangler Fig (Ficus aurea) that looks similar. After quite a lot of research, I’m just not sure.

Banyans are mostly found on the other side of the world where they are native to the Indian subcontinent and are often considered sacred or magical, worshiped and venerated by many specific countries and religions.

Banyans are rated the largest trees on the planet according to the area covered, and they live for hundreds of years. I love noticing what is around me and then doing some research. There’s so much to learn and explore when you are naturally curious!


Golfing in Florida

The last time I went golfing was probably 3-4 years ago. And It was with the same cousin here in Florida. The only reason I know how to golf is from taking some lessons as a teenager at the YMCA in Pennsylvania while visiting my grandparents for the summer. Somehow those few lessons have stuck with me enough to be able to have a good time on the fairway and not totally fail every shot. Actually, there are a lot of experiences and lessons learned while visiting PA. from ages 11-17, starting when my parent got a divorce in 85’. How grateful I am to have been able to get to know and spend so much time with my grandparents on both sides. They are all gone now.

Saw some interesting wildlife on the course, and the weather was perfect. As far as birds go, there was the standard fare that you see almost anywhere in this part of Florida. Ducks, geese, coots, gallinules, and Ibis. The most prominent, raising big a ruckus at the 12th hole putting green, was around 20-30 Egyptian Geese. They’re really beautiful birds with a distinctive dark eye patch and overall attractive coloring. They originated in Africa and when brought over to the US for zoos and the like, got loose and established feral populations. According to Wikipedia, the Ancient Egyptians considered them sacred. It’s doubtful the golfers pay them much mind other than when the birds are honking loudly on the sidelines or a nearby roof, as the player tries to sink their final putt.


There were also some huge invasive green iguanas in trees and on the ground. They look like dinosaurs and are fairly docile but I know many people in this state do not like them and they can do a lot of damage. Not one of them ran out to grab any of my golf balls so I was happy. Overall a beautiful morning! I didn’t play too horribly and got some quality time with my cousin.


Loxahatchee

This morning I put in almost 10,000 steps, slowly exploring the Arthur R. Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge. According to their website, “the refuge consists of 145,188 acres, or 226 square miles, of Everglades ecosystems including a mosaic of wet prairies, sawgrass ridges, sloughs, tree islands, cattail communities, and a 400-acre cypress swamp. These lands provide habitat — food, water, shelter, and space — for more than 250 species of birds, 60 species of reptiles and amphibians, 40 species of butterflies, and 20 types of mammals.” My main goal was bird watching, but I did happen to spot two alligators sunning on mud.

If you are interested, I will talk about the birds that I saw and anything notable while encountering them. The most prevalent and numerous were the Common Gallinule, American Coot, and Purple Gallinule. More than once I was startled by their alarming calls from the water line very near my path. When not reacting to me they were swimming around like ducks and eating vegetation from underwater. The Purple Gallinule reminded me of a very large pigeon in shape and the iridescent coloring of their feathers.

The largest birds descending in size were the Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Anhinga, and Little Blue Heron. They were mostly out in the open and easy to observe. The Anhinga in particular really surprised me. I heard a splash and turned around to see 10 inches of its head above water, with a small fish skewered on the end of his upper bill. He then submerged for 10-15 seconds, came back up, and then seemed to disappear underwater, not to be seen again. It was hard to believe I was seeing a bird that stays underwater that much. Makes sense someone nicknamed it “Snakebird,” because that is how it looked.

There were a few birds that I was not able to identify. The more I get into birding the more I realize there is to learn. But when you love something and it is exciting the motivation is there. The last bird I will mention from this part of the refuge is the Loggerhead Shrike. What a handsome predatory songbird, mostly gray coloring, with black and white, and a precise mechanical song.


The Cypress Swamp at Arthur R. Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge.

The last area I visited was the 400-acre cypress swamp, a small vestige of its historical range before Florida was transformed into what it is today. It’s an area covered in shallow water, with Cypress Trees, ferns, Spanish moss hanging everywhere, lichens, and all other sorts of swamp plants. It was eerily quiet while I navigated the constructed boardwalk, and I imagined how it might be much more active and noisy at night. Just when I had about given up seeing any birds, I was surprised by the appearance of three different types of woodpecker in a matter of minutes. A Pileated Woodpecker, which always seems surprisingly large, a male and female Red-bellied Woodpecker pair, and what I think was a Yellow-bellied Sapsucker. What a great way to spend half my day!


National Trails

Are you aware that there is a system of 1000’s of miles of trails all over the United States? The Appalachian is probably the most famous but there is so much more. While planning my drive to Florida for Thanksgiving I discovered a brochure for the Florida National Scenic Trail and there I saw a map similar to the one above with many more routes than I knew existed.

My first thought was what it would be like to hike them all! What diverse landscapes you would see, a thorough survey of this whole country. Since my camping trip last weekend, I have been wondering how I can spend more time in nature. It brings me a lot of joy to hike and bird watch and identify trees and plants. Why not make it a priority?

Click the map for a larger version! The National Trails System Act of 1968 helped to establish and promote the development and healthy uses of trails by all.

Click the map for a larger version! The National Trails System Act of 1968 helped to establish and promote the development and healthy uses of trails by all.


Weekend at the Coast

This weekend I traveled down to the gulf coast of Texas with a friend to do some camping. The choice of where to stay was mostly dictated by the popularity and lack of availability of almost all of the campsites in the whole state. It’s a beautiful time of year to be out of doors. We settled on Lake Corpus Christi State Park, which only had a few spaces left. It would not have been my first choice but it worked out wonderfully and I’m so glad to have expanded my view of how nice the Texas coast can be.

The Corpus Christi downtown bay-front as seen from a deteriorating barrier wall around the marina.

The state park was great and allowed us a home base to explore the city of Corpus Christi and pay a visit to the Padre Island National Sea Shore. The weather was perfect and it was fortuitous to be away from home and outdoors when the election results came in. We watched Biden’s speech at our camp picnic table with a nice fire going. And it was easy to look up and see a hint of the Milky Way, some planets, and lots of stars. All of the other campers were well behaved, which made it very relaxing.

Malaquite Beach at the Padre Island National Sea Shore.

Malaquite Beach at the Padre Island National Sea Shore.

Miles of dunes covered in flowering plants along the beach.

Miles of dunes covered in flowering plants along the beach.

After living in Texas for over 30 years of my life, I lament the fact that I have only been to the coast a very few times. Growing up in central Texas I just never heard anything nice about it. In high school, Padre was the hedonistic spring break destination, which I never participated in. Then you hear about oil spills and the like and it just never sounded that appealing.

Well, I was absolutely impressed with the nature and beaches that I saw and wish now I had made more frequent trips. One thing I love is birding, and at the state park, I saw three gorgeous birds, that you would only see at the southern tip of Texas and into Mexico. The tropical Great Kiskadee and Green Jay, plus an uncommon Audubon’s Oriole. So colorful and exciting to behold!

There aren’t a lot of photos to share since my intention was to mostly stay off my phone and just have an experience. It’s interesting being a photographer because people often assume you will prioritize capturing the most amazing images wherever you go. Maybe some do, but I was just happy to get out into nature and look, listen, breathe, and be. I highly recommend it.